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ATLANTA (AP) — Black women around the world gather in salons, dorm rooms and living rooms for hours at a time to get synthetic braids put in their hair. But they're wondering if the convenience and fashion benefits are being outweighed by potential health hazards.
The question circulating on social media and in the Black community follows on the heels of a proposed federal rule — that's still in limbo after multiple delays — to ban the carcinogen formaldehyde in hair-straightening chemicals.
There's a thin body of research into the potential issues of using synthetic hair for braids. The latest addition is an independent study from Consumer Reports into chemicals found in braiding products. Some say the findings are concerning, but others are hesitant to make recommendations in part because the methodology did not go through a typical study review process.
All of the experts who spoke with The Associated Press did agree more research is needed into synthetic braids and other products Black women often use in or on their hair. Here's a look at what's known, what's not known and what you might want to do in the meantime.
What's known about synthetic braids?
Experts say it's difficult to draw conclusions from prior studies. The Consumer Reports study, which was published in late February, said there were dangerous chemicals like lead, benzene and other carcinogens in 10 of the most popular synthetic braiding products.
While experts said the presence of the chemicals is concerning and confusing, they noted the study didn't go through the rigorous scrutiny that it takes to get published in a peer-reviewed science or medical journal.
Javon Ford, a cosmetic chemist who talks about his work on social media, questioned the report's findings, saying "the data set is so limited.” Consumer Reports only sampled two of each product, despite thousands on the market.
James Rogers, the head of product safety at Consumer Reports who led the study, said his hope was to get the information out there because of the lack of research. He noted that it was a pilot project, but that “we thought the results were important enough to start the conversation.”
Research published in 2020 in the journal Environmental Health Insights showed synthetic hair let off volatile organic compounds — chemicals that can easily evaporate into the air — when heated. Synthetic hair is sealed when braided, either by burning it or dipping it in hot water. That study detected many of the same chemicals named in the Consumer Reports study, like the known carcinogen benzene.
What isn't known about synthetic braids?
Experts can't answer whether the products are truly safe — but that's because there's so little research out there.
There's also little government oversight on the products, which leaves manufacturers to ensure that they're safe. Consumer Reports is petitioning the Food and Drug Administration to begin regulating synthetic braiding hair.
Jasmine McDonald, a professor of epidemiology at Columbia University who has studied the health impacts of chemical hair straighteners, said the Consumer Reports study shouldn’t invoke fear but awareness about the potential harms of braiding hair, the lack of federal regulations and the minimal research.
“I think that in our culture, we sometimes normalize things to the point where we don’t see the harm ... the more that we can raise awareness that some of these cultural routines could potentially provide harm is us having the potential to stop that harm," McDonald said.
What should I use on my hair?
If you're concerned about using synthetic braiding hair or straightening chemicals, there are other hairstyles to try.
You can use Brazilian wool hair instead of synthetic hair, said Gloria Okpurukre, who owns Anointed Fingers braiding salon in Fayetteville, Georgia. You can also braid your real hair, but don't expect the same results.
“The purpose of adding the hair is for volume and length,” Okpurukre said. “A lot of people, their hair starts thinning out and they need to add something to make it look nice.”
Some synthetic brands use banana fiber to create the hair, which companies say are less irritating to the scalp. But Ford said you won't necessarily avoid chemicals just because you switch brands.
Raven Baxter, a molecular biologist who has talked about braiding hair on social media, opted to stop using synthetic braiding products because of the lack of information — both on the packaging or in research studies. Now, she uses single-ingredient products in her hair care routine, like aloe vera gel and vegetable glycerin.
“A lot of the work that scientists do, we’re able to do it because a funder deemed it as important to support that research," she said, adding, "until we have funders that value the things that we’re concerned about, we’re not necessarily going to get the research published that concerns us.”
McDonald suggested staying away from products that contain PFAS, parabens and other “forever chemicals.”
She also said consumers can determine what's in the products and their relative safety by looking at online databases, like the Breast Cancer Prevention Partners’ Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.
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The Associated Press Health and Science Department receives support from the Howard Hughes Medical Institute’s Science and Educational Media Group and the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation. The AP is solely responsible for all content.
