Courreges at Paris Fashion Week is a balance of concealment and exposure

PARIS (AP) — French fashion house Courrèges' runway show Wednesday was a study in contrasts—minimal yet bold, structured yet fluid, restrained yet expressive.

Staged on a pristine white runway at the Carreau du Temple in Paris, with its pillars wrapped in white sheaths, the setting underscored the brand’s sleek, futuristic aesthetic. Paillettes scattered across the floor swirled into the air with smoke machines, in a nod to nightclub energy.

Since taking over Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice has refined its 1960s space-age legacy, shaping it into something sharp and contemporary. The latest collection features a precise color palette of white, red and black, and strategic color blocking that emphasized clean cuts and the balance between exposure and concealment.

That tension was central to the collection. Di Felice played with asymmetry, using long fabric panels that fluttered from miniskirts and layered constructions that allowed wearers to adjust how much they revealed. The result was a wardrobe that felt nightlife-ready yet polished, merging sharp tailoring with movement and fluidity.

Founded by André Courrèges in 1961, the house became known for its crisp, geometric silhouettes, miniskirts, and high-tech materials, defining an era of space-age fashion. Di Felice stays true to that DNA while shaping it in his own way, refining rather than reinventing.

While his restrained palette and structural techniques were striking, they can sometimes feel more like an iteration than an evolution. Playful details, like a bold red double-tasseled scarf, added contrast, but some silhouettes, shaped by his signature geometric experimentation, sometimes leaned more sculptural than practical.