Demna dials down theatrics for a more saleable vision of Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week

PARIS (AP) — Balenciaga is no stranger to spectacle, and Demna has built his reputation on turning the ordinary into the extreme. But this season, the brand's it-designer pulled back, choosing precision over provocation. His Sunday fall collection at Paris Fashion Week, Standard, focused on familiar dress codes, subtly warped but never fully broken.

Was this a study in refinement, or — shockingly — a step toward the conventional for a man known for breaking molds?

The show took place in a dimly lit maze of black curtains at the Cour du Dôme des Invalides, giving a sense of movement without grand theatrics. The models stormed through the narrow pathways, inches from VIP guests Tyra Banks, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Jessica Alba, their stiletto-heeled stomp set to the brooding strains of Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata.

A shift in intensity

Businesswear was the foundation, with suits that alternated between crisp and intentionally crumpled. Denim pencil skirts, laced corset shirts, and long overcoats played with structure, while cocooned hoods and exaggerated lapels introduced a sculptural quality.

The impact, however, felt restrained. Silhouettes that once enveloped the body now followed a more familiar form. Sportswear, too, was tempered—tracksuits and bombers were leaner, and denim, usually one of Demna’s most manipulated materials, was given only slight modifications, treated to appear permanently wrinkled rather than wholly reimagined.

A quieter spectacle

Absent were the shock elements of past seasons—no simulated disasters, no extreme exaggerations. Instead, the focus was on subtle transformations. For some, this marked a designer refining his vision; for others, it felt like a step away from the bold statements that defined his early Balenciaga years.

The Balenciaga x PUMA collaboration underscored this shift. While undoubtedly positioned for commercial success, its straightforward execution felt at odds with Demna’s usual approach to reworking streetwear. One reaction among critics pointed to its simplicity as a move toward accessibility rather than innovation.

A commercial recalibration?

More than ever, this collection seemed geared toward long-term retail appeal rather than shock-driven virality. While Demna has scaled back the provocation, the emphasis on businesswear, streamlined outerwear, and luxury-inflected sportswear suggests a strategic pivot toward a more commercially viable Balenciaga. The tailoring was clean, outerwear was softened, and layers leaned into versatility.

However, although some insiders pointed out how the reversed quarter-zip added an unexpected neckline shift, and a bathrobe-style coat blended casual ease with structured elegance—neither pushed the boundaries in the way past seasons have.

The collection may have been titled Standard, but it left an open question: Is Demna reshaping Balenciaga’s future, or settling into a more commonplace standard?