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Kim Jones sharpens VIP-filled Dior men's fashion with a structured, masculine recalibration

France Fashion F/W 25/26 Dior Homme
January 24, 2025

PARIS (AP) โ€” Inside the historic Ecole Militaire, with the Eiffel Tower looming above, Kate Moss and Robert Pattinson joined a star-studded audience for Dior Men's show at Paris Fashion Week โ€” a slight but noticeable departure for Kim Jones.

Renowned for his gender-fluid designs, Jones on Friday embraced a sharper, more traditionally masculine aesthetic this season.

The white sanitized, almost ethereal staircase descending onto the runway was minimalist and angular โ€” much like the designs themselves. It set the stage for a Jones collection inspired by the houseโ€™s mid-century heritage.

Kim Jones sharpens VIP-filled Dior men's fashion with a structured, masculine recalibration
France Fashion F/W 25/26 Dior Homme

Taking cues from Christian Diorโ€™s iconic โ€œLigne H,โ€ or โ€œH Line,โ€ a revolutionary post-war silhouette designed to simplify womenโ€™s fashion, Jones reinterpreted it as clean, structured lines for men.

Stars shine bright

The front row was equally captivating. Kate Moss, ever the icon, caused a flurry of paparazzi snaps, resembling a goddess at the foot of the staircase.

Robert Pattinson, meanwhile, exuded his trademark brooding charm, drawing admiring glances. Louis Garrel, Nam Joo-hyuk, and J Balvin added their international star power, while Gwendoline Christie, statuesque and commanding, turned heads.

Rising stars Apo Nattawin and Mile Phakphum caused an uproar outside, underscoring Diorโ€™s global cultural reach.

The looks โ€” minimalist, masculine, couture

Kim Jones sharpens VIP-filled Dior men's fashion with a structured, masculine recalibration
France Fashion F/W 25/26 Dior Homme

Jones delivered a collection that balanced precision with opulence. A black leather bomber, minimalist and stark, exemplified the pared-down refinement that underpinned the collection.

It typified Jonesโ€™ focus on structured masculinity.

Tailored opera capes, borrowed from Diorโ€™s womenโ€™s couture archives, were reimagined sharply.

Polished leather boots adorned with satin bows โ€” playfully nicknamed โ€œbow capsโ€ โ€” brought a couture twist to otherwise restrained looks.

Kim Jones sharpens VIP-filled Dior men's fashion with a structured, masculine recalibration
France Fashion F/W 25/26 Dior Homme

The finale featured a striking pink robe inspired by Diorโ€™s 1948 (asterisk)Pondichery(asterisk) haute couture look, reinterpreted with intricate embroidery that shimmered. Hybrid sneakers, embroidered with motifs from Diorโ€™s 1961 archives, injected youthful energy into the lineup.

Theme of transformation

Jones built the collection around metamorphosis, exploring menswearโ€™s evolution from the ornamental excesses of the 18th century to the functional refinement of the 19th century.

Angular tailoring softened by satin bows, glass-bead embroidery reminiscent of raindrops, and chiaroscuro-inspired drapery underscored the duality that has become a hallmark of Jonesโ€™ work.

Seen and heard โ€” a new direction

Front-row buzz centered on the shift in tone.

Kim Jones sharpens VIP-filled Dior men's fashion with a structured, masculine recalibration
France Fashion F/W 25/26 Dior Homme

โ€œItโ€™s sharper, more grounded,โ€ one insider noted, comparing this collection to Jonesโ€™ fluid designs of previous seasons.

Rumors circulated about whether this pivot was artistically motivated or influenced by Dior executives. Either way, Jonesโ€™ pragmatic approach to fashion โ€” balancing artistry with wearability โ€” delivered a strong collection.

What the designer says

โ€œMr. Diorโ€™s Ligne H was in our heads even before going into the archive this season,โ€ Jones said.

โ€œIt has elements that are graphic and angular, which felt eminently transferable into the menโ€™s world," he said. "While a lot refers to the history of fashion, this is not historical fashion. Ultimately, in this collection, we wanted to say something about now.โ€

Kim Jones sharpens VIP-filled Dior men's fashion with a structured, masculine recalibration
France Fashion F/W 25/26 Dior Homme

Jonesโ€™ work frequently draws praise for its ability to reinterpret Diorโ€™s heritage for a modern audience, but at times, critics have noted that heavy archival references risk stifling bold innovation. In this collection, however, he struck a confident balance โ€” reimagining Ligne Hโ€™s angular lines with a deliberate precision that worked.

Still, the pivot to a more traditionally masculine aesthetic may raise questions about whether this shift reflects Jonesโ€™ creative instincts or external pressures to align Dior Men with more commercially viable codes.

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