Lanvin: A return to elegance in Peter Copping’s highly anticipated Paris debut

PARIS (AP) — Lanvin, the world’s oldest continually operating couture house, founded in 1889, unveiled a new chapter in its storied history with Peter Copping’s debut as artistic director. Tasked with restoring focus and relevance to the maison at Paris Fashion Week, Copping took inspiration from Jeanne Lanvin herself, channeling her 1920s and ’30s vision into a collection on Sunday night that bridged timeless elegance with modernity.

A tribute to Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy

Copping’s designs paid homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s panoramic creativity, encompassing everything from couture to perfumes and interiors. The collection revived signature elements of the house, including capes, draped ribbon dresses, and the iconic (asterisk)robe de style.(asterisk) Notable looks included a gold metallic lurex dress, a petaled skirt, cascading antique-style lace aprons, and gilded trousers, which deftly balanced historical reference and contemporary allure.

Copping’s approach revealed a deep reverence for the house’s heritage. While some might wonder whether this homage leaned too close to the past, the collection’s richness demonstrated his commitment to preserving the maison’s DNA.

The looks: an Art Deco revival

Graphic patterns and motifs drawn from Jeanne Lanvin’s own home infused the collection with Art Deco sophistication. A standout was a black velvet cape traced with silver studs, paired with a sheer blouse and tailored trousers. Eveningwear took center stage, with dramatic creations like spiral-draped ribbon dresses and mirror-embroidered pieces showcasing Copping’s mastery of couture gestures.

While the collection’s variety offered something for everyone — 62 looks spanning eveningwear, daywear, and menswear — it occasionally felt like a broad exploration rather than a single cohesive narrative. Even so, each piece’s sheer creativity and technical precision highlighted Copping’s passion for the craft.

Menswear innovations

Menswear, a new venture for Copping, offered intriguing moments, such as a silver mirror-embroidered long-sleeve T-shirt. While the menswear segment felt exploratory, it hinted at exciting possibilities for future collections as Copping refines his vision in this area.

The fall collection was more than a debut; it was a declaration of intent. The rousing applause at the finale reflected the audience’s appreciation for Copping’s thoughtful craftsmanship and deep respect for Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy. This debut signals a bright future for Lanvin.