Your Morning Beauty Routine Has a Secret: What Your Favorite Fragrances Aren't Revealing

Scientists are raising concerns about the long-term health effects of phthalates, chemicals commonly found in perfumes and personal care products. Mounting evidence suggests these compounds could affect current users and potentially future generations.

Recent studies indicate that phthalates, present in many fragrances, nail polishes, and hair care items, may be linked to various adverse health outcomes, including insulin resistance, cardiovascular disease, and impaired neurodevelopment. These findings have prompted health experts to advocate for reduced exposure to these chemicals, particularly among individuals planning families or those with young children.

A study published in JAMA Network Open revealed that higher concentrations of phthalates from personal care products in urine were associated with a 25% increased risk of hyperactivity problems in adolescents. The same cohort demonstrated poorer mathematical performance when exposed to elevated levels of these chemicals.

The potential risks have already led to regulatory action in the United States, where certain phthalates are prohibited in children’s toys and items such as pacifiers and baby bottles. However, these chemicals remain present in many personal care products used by adults and adolescents.

Andrea Gore, professor of pharmacology and toxicology at the University of Texas at Austin, who studies the effects of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, recommends a cautious approach. “I recommend avoiding added fragrances altogether — in perfumes, scented lotions, and shampoos, even scented detergents and antiperspirants,” Gore stated in an email interview.

These substances belong to a broader category known as endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs), which can interfere with the body’s hormone system. The endocrine system comprises multiple glands, including the thyroid and pituitary, which produce and regulate hormones controlling growth and reproduction. According to the Endocrine Society, hundreds of chemicals may function as endocrine disrupters.

PFAS are a well-known group of chemicals considered EDCs, and others, such as phthalates and parabens, are more commonly found in soaps, shampoos and beauty products — though they’re also in plenty of other places. Phthalates are even in our food.

Research suggests that reducing exposure to these chemicals can yield measurable benefits. A 2023 study of 41 women found that after switching to phthalate-free and paraben-free products for 28 days, participants showed decreased levels of these chemicals in their urine. Moreover, the study detected reductions in gene expression associated with cancer in their breast tissue.

Medical professionals advocate for practical approaches to minimizing exposure. Rebecca Jeun, an endocrinologist at the University of Louisville Health, acknowledges the challenge of avoiding all potential sources of endocrine disrupters, “It’s frankly overwhelming to consider all the sources of potential endocrine disrupters and so I think to maintain your own sanity, I would focus on changes that are sustainable for your lifestyle and resources.” She suggests focusing on sustainable lifestyle changes, such as reducing the consumption of canned and ultra-processed foods and avoiding heating food or drinks in plastic containers.

For those seeking to maintain their beauty routines while reducing chemical exposure, experts recommend checking product websites and packaging for phthalate-free certification. However, they caution that ingredient lists may not tell the complete story, as some products list “fragrance” as an ingredient without disclosing specific chemical components.

Carol Duh-Leong, pediatrician and assistant professor at NYU Grossman School of Medicine, emphasizes the importance of engaging younger consumers in conversations about safer products. “For older children who are interested in beauty or skincare products, I recommend celebrating them for practicing self-care and proactively helping them identify their favorite and safe gentle face wash, moisturizer (oil and fragrance-free), and sunscreen to be part of their daily wellness routine,” she said in an email interview.

Some critics argue that data on phthalates and other EDCs remains inconclusive, citing the absence of randomized control trials in humans. Gore explains that such trials would be “virtually impossible — and almost certainly unethical.” She added, “This is why we’re dependent upon testing a chemical in cell lines and lab animals to prove a cause-and-effect.”

The Endocrine Society has stated that these experiments have produced “irrefutable evidence” of EDCs causing various health problems. Gore notes, “If a chemical has endocrine disrupting effects in animals, there is exceptionally high certainty that this is also the case in humans. The hormones of the endocrine system are structurally and functionally similar, if not identical, in nonhuman and human animals.”

Perhaps most concerning are the potential multigenerational effects of these chemicals. Research indicates that exposure to EDCs can cause changes to sperm or egg cells that could be passed down to future generations. As Gore explains, “The fact that chemicals have multigenerational effects is the most compelling example why — if a chemical is introduced, and then pulled from the market later — it’s too late: that cycle of heritability has already begun. No one wants their grandchildren to be destined for illness, a generation before they are even conceived.”