Rum, relaxation, and retro vibes: LA's tiki scene makes a comeback

Tiki bars, known for their tropical décor and fruity cocktails, first emerged in Los Angeles. Now, a resurgence might be on the horizon. These bars create a relaxed atmosphere with thatched roofs, tropical drinks, and Polynesian decor. Tiki bars were popular for offering patrons an exotic escape, a tradition that finds new relevance today.

The new documentary, "The Donn of Tiki," explores the birth of tiki culture and its mysterious founder, Donn the Beachcomber. The film premiered at the Dances With Films Festival in Los Angeles. Filmmaker Alex Lamb said, “As I started interviewing people, everyone was talking about Donn the Beachcomber. It seemed like he deserved his own documentary,” during an interview on LAist's AirTalk.

Donn the Beachcomber, originally Ernest Raymond Beaumont-Gantt, opened the first tiki bar in Hollywood in 1937. His bar offered an escape using his travels and experiences. Lamb noted, “What Don was doing was really autobiographical.” Donn's tiki bar hit its stride as soldiers sought relaxation after World War II.

Kevin Murphy, co-owner of the Tonga Hut in North Hollywood, highlighted tiki bars’ role in offering an escape. “When you look at tiki historically, it seems to always come back after horrible things happen because people are trying to escape that,” Lamb stated. The Tonga Hut, established in 1958, is LA's oldest tiki bar.

Murphy recalled his father building a tiki bar in their basement, filled with fake plants and decorations for luaus. He said these at-home bars became widespread during the tiki boom.

While "The Donn of Tiki" does not address cultural appropriation, it acknowledges the issue. Murphy explained, “Capitalism is at the core. Hawaii isn’t the home of the tiki bar. It’s a SoCal construct.” The tiki style combines Caribbean rum-based cocktails with South Pacific motifs. Lamb said, “The cocktails are really based off rum and South Caribbean mixology. The aesthetic is South Pacific, like Hawaiian [and] Tongan.”

Modern tiki bars continue to showcase Donn the Beachcomber’s influence on cocktails. Murphy mentioned, “The foundation of a tiki bar is still your tiki cocktails. Fresh juices, fresh made syrups, quality rums, and quality spirits.” A traditional Mai Tai or a Navy Grog are often recommended to experience true tiki drinks.

Lamb and Murphy believe tiki culture is experiencing a revival. Murphy said, “We’re getting a lot of people that are coming back and embracing it from history and then people are just enjoying it for the first time.”

Local favorites include Tiki No in North Hollywood, Tiki-Ti on Sunset Blvd, Damon's Steakhouse in Glendale, and the Bamboo Club in Long Beach. Each offers unique atmospheres and classic tiki cocktails, continuing the legacy of tiki culture in LA.

Adrian from Corona, a tiki mug collector, praised Tiki-Ti, saying it has been an Hollywood staple for more than six decades. Murphy noted, “I've been to all the tiki bars in LA and the Tonga Hut is my favorite." Their enduring popularity speaks to the ongoing appeal of tiki as a cultural phenomenon.

As interest in tiki culture grows, bars that offer a nostalgic yet refreshing escape remain popular for both longtime fans and new explorers.